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23 Tips to How To Cut Shoe Molding Return | Quarter Round Meets Door Casing
- The primary use for shoe molding is to cover gaps where flooring meets adjacent vertical surfaces, especially when the flooring was installed after the baseboard trim and cabinetry. Because shoe molding is so thin, it’s very flexible, which allows it to easily conform to any dips or curves where floors may have sagged, or walls are not completely flat. Even if you don’t have any gaps to hide, shoe molding is a nice way to dress up the baseboard trim in your home. - Source: Internet
- If a wall is longer than the available pieces of shoe molding, you will need to join two pieces with a scarf joint. This is done by cutting the same angle on both pieces where they will overlap and fit tight to each other. Scarf joints are preferred to butt joints for joining pieces because a scarf joint will help align the two pieces and it will provide more surface area for gluing. - Source: Internet
- In most big-box stores, you can also find polystyrene shoe molding, which is the most affordable option, but it is more flexible and softer than wood or MDF. This means it’s harder to get it to sit flat, and it doesn’t cut or nail quite as cleanly as the other materials. It does come in a smooth white finish that doesn’t need to be painted, though, making it a popular choice when cost and efficiency are the biggest priority. - Source: Internet
- Tip: When cutting a miter on your miter saw, make your first cut a bit past the mark you made for your cut, and then carefully nudge the piece over, repeating the cutting process until the blade falls just past the line. This ensures that you don’t accidentally cut the piece too short. It’s also a good idea to cut outside miter angles a half degree more than the actual measurement because that will ensure that the outside corner of the joint closes up nice and tight. - Source: Internet
- Once the miter fits well, hold the pieces into place and carefully mark each piece where it will get cut at the other end. If the other end is an inside corner, you just repeat the above steps. If it’s an outside corner, scarf joint, or miter return, follow the appropriate steps below. - Source: Internet
- Make a tick mark in the same direction on both pieces showing the direction you want to cut the angle. Then, on each piece, cut to the correct side of the mark you made with the combination square–you should be cutting on the side away from the other joint you already cut on each piece. It’s a good idea to cut each piece a little past the mark to start, and then test fit and recut if needed, to ensure that you don’t cut the pieces too short. - Source: Internet
- Most building supply stores also carry a more traditional shoe molding which is thinner and has a flat face with a detailed top edge. This is a bit more formal looking than quarter-round molding, and would be fitting in a room with colonial-style existing trim. If neither of these are the look you’re going for, check with your local lumber yard for other possible options. - Source: Internet
- Outside corners typically get cut after the other end of a piece of shoe molding has already been fitted, so if the other end of a piece terminates in an inside corner, a scarf joint, or a miter return, fit that first and continue with the outside corner afterwards. Then, holding the piece tight into the previously fitted joint, make a mark on the back edge of the shoe molding just past the end of the outside corner of the baseboard. While still holding the piece in place, make a tick mark at an angle away from the length mark as a reminder of which direction to make the cut when you take it to the saw. - Source: Internet
- If your home has stained wood trim, you will likely want your shoe molding to match. Lumber yards typically carry unfinished oak and pine molding, which are the most common stain-grade trim materials, but you may need to go to a specialty lumber store if your house is trimmed with wood of a less common species. If you don’t know what wood your existing trim is made of, it’s best to bring a sample to the lumber yard so someone can help you ID it. If you don’t have a loose piece of trim, use a chisel to carefully chip off a piece of baseboard in an inconspicuous spot down low where it will get covered by the shoe molding. This sample chip will also help you match the stain you will need to finish the installation later. - Source: Internet
- Once you’ve bought your shoe molding, it’s a good idea to put on at least one coat of your desired finish before you install it if you plan to paint or stain it. This is because it will be easier to coat the loose pieces beforehand than it would when they are installed tight to your floor. Plus painting the trim while it’s on a drop cloth or workbench will be much less messy than when it’s down on the ground. - Source: Internet
- In the photo below an inside miter is cut for the starting point of the actual end cap area. This is the end of the quarter round that will start at the door casing. To create the actual end cap, swing the miter saw blade position to the opposite 45 degree angle making a cut on a smaller separate scrap piece (no photo). - Source: Internet
- Next, use your angle finder to measure the outside corner of the baseboard you are wrapping the shoe molding around. Divide the angle in half to get the degrees of each of the miter cuts you need to make. Then, carefully align the miter saw blade with the length mark you made on the back edge of one of the pieces and make the miter cut. Do the same for the miter cut on the other piece. - Source: Internet
- If the surface the molding is ending at is perpendicular to the shoe molding, use a simple 90-degree cut to create a butt joint. The length of this piece will be the distance from the surface the molding is abutting to the farthest point of the joint at the other end of the piece. Use your tape measure to get that measurement. - Source: Internet
- To make this filler, first make a clean 90-degree cut on the same end of a scrap of shoe molding (i.e., if your miter return is on the right side of the molding you cut to go on the wall, make the 90-degree cut on the right end of the scrap piece). - Source: Internet
- Shoe molding does not usually go across the bottom of door casings unless you need to cover a big gap where new flooring was installed. Take your tape measure and measure each of the places you will need shoe molding, and add up the total number of feet. Now add 10 percent to that number to account for all the cuts you need to make (add even more if you have a lot of corners or doorways to work around)–and that’s how much shoe molding you should buy. - Source: Internet
- First you’ll need a very sharp saw blade on that miter saw. In fact, if I haven’t covered it already, a sharp blade can be very important when cutting harder hardwood species like the Maple trim we’re using in this example. Let’s tackle end cap #2. You want to cut an inside miter that will be the stopping point at the door casing, and whatever measurement is needed to complete the trim along that same wall line. - Source: Internet
- Make sure that nails always go into the baseboard or other vertical surface, not the floor. It’s a good idea that your brad nailer has a soft rubber tip on it to prevent it from denting the molding as you nail it. You may have to adjust the depth setting on your nailer to get the heads of the brad nails to sink to just below the surface of the molding. - Source: Internet
- In our next step we want to fill in the wall area with piece #4. First cut #3 with the same outside miters as we did in the first illustration on the previous page. With piece #4 make one outside miter that will intersect with #3, either with a long full piece or cut to approximate length leaving a few inches over hanging. Some prefer to actually measure from the inside corner to the miter cut on the original #1 piece with a tape measure. The choice is yours but I’ve found this method to work better. - Source: Internet
- To keep things organized, it’s a good idea to rough-cut all your pieces a few inches longer than you’ll need them to be and then position each piece on the floor where you plan to install each one. This will help you avoid cutting the wrong pieces when walking back and forth to the saw to make cuts. It will also let you know if you have enough material to finish the job before you start installing. - Source: Internet
- Start by using the angle finder to measure the inside corner of the baseboard. Then make opposing 45-degree cuts (or slightly bigger or smaller angles if your angle finder says the corner is more or less than 90 degrees) on two adjacent pieces that will meet at the inside corner and place them into the corner to see how they fit. If the miter is open at the outer edge, carefully cut each of the angles a little shallower, and if the miter is open at the back, cut each angle a little steeper to get a tight fit. - Source: Internet
- Tip: When cutting between two inside corners, you can cut shoe molding 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch longer than the length of the baseboard to start because the thin molding is flexible enough to bend into place. This will give you some wiggle room for recutting the miter if the angle is slightly off after your initial cut. It will also ensure that the shoe molding fits nice and tight into both corners. - Source: Internet
- Occasionally, uneven surfaces or bends in the baseboard may make it difficult or impossible for shoe molding to sit tight to the wall. If the trim will be painted, you can hide these irregularities later with caulk. But if it’s stain-grade trim, you should do your best to get it to follow the bends, possibly by adding more nails or by cutting small kerfs in the back of the shoe molding where it needs to make an extra tight bend. - Source: Internet
- The next step is figuring out how much trim you need. Walk around the room and take a tally of all the surfaces that will get a piece of shoe molding. Typically the molding just runs the full length of all the pieces of baseboard, but it sometimes runs along the base of cabinets too. - Source: Internet
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