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24 Fun Facts Sink Clips For Butcher Block | Butcher Block Sink Cover

  • Make sure you think through the positioning of the sink, how it relates to the faucet and cabinets. We measured and sketched and gave it a lot of thought, but we missed the fact that the brackets would stick out to where the counters made contact with the cabinets. Our cabinets happened to be bowed at the sink, so it ended up working out, but it could have been an issue. - Source: Internet
  • The cost of installing an undermount sink is higher, but only marginally, about $50 to $75 more. The savings with a drop-in sink can be much greater if you opt to install it yourself. Do-it-yourself installation of undermount sinks is not recommended because it’s too easy to damage an expensive countertop if you make a mistake. Undermount sinks can add extra value to your remodel, and they fit in with most design styles. - Source: Internet
  • Fit your countertop to the walls and cabinets, making all of your trim cuts so that the counter is snug to the wall. Locate the center of the sink cabinet, and draw a pencil mark across the depth of the counter. Lay under the counter, inside the sink cabinet, and measure the distance from the front counter edge to the inside back of the cabinet face. Measure from the inside cabinet face to the inside cabinet back wall. - Source: Internet
  • Drop-in sinks, also called self-rimming or top-mount, are still the most common type of kitchen sink. A drop-in sink has a visible lip around its perimeter that rests flat on the countertop. The sink basin drops straight into the countertop cut-out, and the perimeter lip holds everything in place. - Source: Internet
  • I knew I wanted to install a new sink when we were putting in new counters. The sink we had was an enamel-coated cast iron sink that was full of scratches and chips and water was always hanging around the lip. So, when I was looking for a new sink, I considered a farmhouse-style sink, but I already hated having a white sink (think coffee settling into all of the fine scratches and looking grungy all the time) and I thought it would be a real pain to retrofit the cabinets to accommodate one. I also didn’t think that style of sink would suit this house. With that fleeting thought shot down, I immediately went to an undermount sink. - Source: Internet
  • We pressed the sink firmly into the silicone, making sure the edges lined up with the pencil marks. The brackets were then screwed down with washers and wood screws. Any silicone squeeze out was wiped away with mineral spirits. - Source: Internet
  • Disclosure: Moen gave me the sink in exchange for advertising on my blog. I am very impressed with the quality of their products and it’s an honor to promote their brand. All opinions are my own. - Source: Internet
  • With drop-in sinks, all working areas of the sink are visible and accessible. However, it should be noted that the small, visible seam formed by the lip and the countertop can build up gunk as well. The only difference is that you have better access and more visibility when cleaning the drop-in sink. - Source: Internet
  • For the first part of the project, we cut all of our different pieces of butcher block: the 6-foot countertop, the backsplash, the end cap for the lower cabinets, and the sink inserts. We also used the router to cut the hole for the sink as well as create the inset channel for the sink lip. Finally, we drilled the holes for the faucets. - Source: Internet
  • We chose butcher block countertops for the kitchen for two reasons. First, it is forgiving. Nicks and scratches can be sanded out if we want. Simple periodic oiling will keep it looking great. Second, with quite a bit of white and other flat, smooth surfaces, we wanted the warmth and coziness that wood brings to a home. - Source: Internet
  • Once the counter was finished, which took 11 days for application and cure time, we carried it up to get it ready to install. Since the sink is undermount, it had to be affixed to the counter before we could put the counter in place. We turned the counter upside-down on the cabinets (with some blankets and towels protecting the finish) and positioned the sink over the cut hole. - Source: Internet
  • It was returned, and the search was on for something else. I found another great option and ordered it. Luckily, it arrived damage-free and the finish was exactly what I wanted - a smooth black granite composite. The composite sinks are heat resistant, nonporous, and scratch and water spot resistant. - Source: Internet
  • Remove the butcher block to the work area and position the sink area between saw horses. Install a fresh general cutting blade in a circular saw. Plunge cut the straight lines on each side of the sink pattern with the circular saw. Finish cutting around the corners with a fresh blade in a jig saw. If you are installing an undermount sink, drill the sink holes using a drill and large bits to fit your faucet needs. - Source: Internet
  • Take it one step at a time. The sink was the most intimidating part of the counter project and it also took the most time by far. We just worked on it in steps and agreed we would call in a professional if we hit a snag. We never had to make that call. Woo hoo! - Source: Internet
  • Undermount sinks typically are recommended for all countertop materials except laminate (they can also be problematic with custom tile countertops). The laminate isn’t the issue; it’s the underlying base of particleboard or MDF. MDF does not hold clip fasteners well, and it is highly vulnerable to moisture damage. It’s possible to cover the sink-hole edge with laminate to protect the MDF core, but the seal between the sink and the laminate must be flawless to keep water away from the MDF. - Source: Internet
  • However, there is one type of drop-in sink that can save some counter space: the drainboard sink. This has an integrated drainboard and/or food prep area that extends 8 to 10 inches beyond the side of the sink basin. If you’re tight on counter space, this counterintuitive move—adding more sink rim instead of less—might actually be more economical on space. - Source: Internet
  • One of the more frustrating things about undermount sinks is the gap at the top of the sink, where it joins up with the counter. While this gap is filled with a bead of silicone caulk, it’s usually not filled flush to the surface. A depression remains, and this naturally becomes a magnet for food buildup. Citing this issue, Greg Fox at Fox Granite Countertops recommends digging out the caulk and replacing it on undermount sinks every three to five years. - Source: Internet
  • While an exact replacement in size is generally easier, there are things to consider. Removing the old sink is not always an easy task. There is potential damage to the countertop that can occur. The depth of the sink needs to be considered, too. This can result in having to alter the plumbing drain connection below the sink. - Source: Internet
  • By comparison, undermount sinks require much more care for proper installation. They must be fitted in place and supported temporarily while the clip locations are marked. Holes must be drilled into the countertop (very carefully) and the clips installed. Then the sink must be caulked and mounted—with almost no room for error. - Source: Internet
  • Transfer these marks to the top side of the butcher block. The sink, sink rim and faucet holes must fit between these marks. Use the sink cut template to determine the best location for the sink and faucet holes. Trace the cut template onto the wood, making sure the template is straight and centered. - Source: Internet
  • Yet not all drop-in sinks require clips to lock them down. Some cast iron drop sinks do not require clips since they are much heavier and use the weight of the sink, along with caulk, to make the seal. In some cases, two people are needed during the installation. - Source: Internet
  • Undermount sinks mount to the bottom of the countertop and are held in place by heavy-duty clips and caulk or a special adhesive. An undermount sink does have a rim, but the rim is not visible because it rests up against the bottom of the counter. The edge of the countertop along the sink cutout is entirely exposed. For this reason, undermount sinks generally must be used with solid countertop materials, such as solid surface, natural stone, or quartz. - Source: Internet
  • The clear winner in the category of countertop cleanup is the undermount sink. In fact, ease of cleaning is the number one selling point of the undermount configuration. Because there is no lip to form an obstruction around the sink, you can swipe food particles directly off the counter and into the sink. - Source: Internet
  • Our trouble spot this week was the kitchen sink. We had trouble finding a sink we could buy off the shelf locally because most people’s kitchen sinks sit in a 30” cabinet. We have a 24” cabinet. That meant we had to order a sink online. The first sink I ordered arrived with a crack and the finish on it was poor. - Source: Internet
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