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24 Fun Facts What Grit To Sand Epoxy Primer Before Paint | How To Prep Epoxy Primer For Paint
- When should you use these products on your vintage ride? If your old ride is built of steel it is my opinion that the answer is “never.” Let me repeat that. I don’t think you should ever apply an etching primer to the bare sanded steel on your ride if that vehicle was produced before 1980. Apply two coats of epoxy primer instead. You will end up with better top coat adhesion and greatly improved corrosion protection. - Source: Internet
- Tip: The epoxy resin must be really dry before sanding. You should therefore allow a waiting period of at least 48 hours before processing. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, as there are resins that take even longer to harden completely. - Source: Internet
- Wet sand base color coats with 400- to 600-grit sandpaper before top coating with either additional base color coats or clear coats. You may be tempted to lightly dry sand a base color coat but don’t. Dry sanding can leave sand scratches deep enough that they cannot be filled by subsequent color coats. - Source: Internet
- You will find a large number of clear coat products out there. The one that you want is a high-solids clear,somewhere in the neighborhood of 4.0 VOC, as stated on the label, and one that can be used for overall painting. - Source: Internet
- However, there are also cases where dry sanding is more suitable. This is the case, for example, if you want to combine your epoxy resin piece with wood or other materials that are sensitive to moisture. Wet sanding would cause the wood to swell and leave unsightly stains. - Source: Internet
- Photo 2. PPG DPLF Epoxy primers are available in various colors. The “50” in the DP50LF designation indicates this epoxy to be light gray. Other colors include 40-gray-green, 48-white, 60-blue, 74-red oxide and 90-black. - Source: Internet
- I hesitated to even post on the op’s question. But I decided that I would give another point of view. One thing I have learned by doing a bucket load of research on painting a fiberglass car is that there are so many opinions of how it HAS to be done. I believe there are multiple ways to paint a corvette. - Source: Internet
- THE QUESTION OF what refinishing products can be safely used on what surfaces comes up on a regular basis. And it’s no wonder; the world of refinishing products is constantly changing. Confusion about which product should be used where and when hangs over every painter out there, including me. To that end I thought this would be a good time to address painting product usage starting with the one I get the most questions about. - Source: Internet
- In our experience, wet sanding of epoxy resin with waterproof sandpaper has clearly proven to be more effective than dry sanding. And there are several reasons for this. Firstly, the abrasive paper is much less clogged during wet sanding and therefore lasts much longer. Small irregularities are removed directly during the sanding process and you can immediately see the later result. In addition, the amount of dust produced is much lower. - Source: Internet
- What can you apply a non-catalyzed sealer over? These sealers can be applied to any surface coated with epoxy or any bare metal surface coated with an etching primer. Non-catalyzed sealers will also stick to sanded 2K primer/surfacer, and sanded original finishes of all types. Sanded with what grit? One coat of non catalyzed sealer will easily fill and hide 320-grit sand scratches. - Source: Internet
- But there are also other reasons why wet sanding is generally more suitable than dry sanding. One of these reasons is that dry epoxy resin sanding, whether with a random orbital sander or by hand, generates extremely high heat. This heat may cause the resin to dissolve and the surface to become matt. It is almost impossible to give the surface a beautiful shine again in this case. - Source: Internet
- Sealers come in two varieties, non catalyzed and catalyzed. Both serve one purpose, to stop the solvents from subsequent top coats from penetrating into the primer coats underneath. What happens if you don’t apply a seal coat? You run the risk of the solvents reaching underneath the primer coats and lifting them from the surface being painted. It’s called “wrinkling.” - Source: Internet
- Since the temperature point can vary greatly depending on the casting resin used, you should opt for wet sanding in case of doubt to be on the safe side. Because this produces considerably less heat. In addition, dry sanding of epoxy resin produces a lot of dust. If you decide to use this method, you should always make sure to wear a mask, as epoxy resin dust is considered carcinogenic. - Source: Internet
- That may work great for a production shop that needs to move cars to make money, but most of us are into restoration work and time isn’t our biggest issue. My recommendation is to allow at least two weeks for each application of primer/surface to cure.Why? I can’t offer any technical reasons other than I know catalyzed paint products can outgas solvents for a week or more after application, which to me would offer an opportunity for the primer to shrink as the outgassing occurs. Furthermore, I have friends in the restoration business and between us we all have come to an agreement that a couple of weeks cure time is a good thing. - Source: Internet
- To clean interior panels, start with soap and water followed by a good degreaser (PPG DX 320) and repeat. Then and only then, after the panels are good and clean, should they be sanded with 400- to 600-grit sandpaper prior to refinishing. Cleaning and degreasing prevents all of those nasty waxy contaminants from being ground into the surface by the sandpaper. - Source: Internet
- Epoxy is going to do a number of things for you. First, epoxy is probably the best corrosion-resistant primer you will find. Second, epoxy provides excellent adhesion to properly sanded bare steel, fiberglass, aluminum (sand with 180- to 320-grit and apply at least two coats over the bare aluminum), plastic body fillers finished with 80-grit, and old finishes sanded with 320-grit. Third, if reduced according to the P Sheets, epoxy can be applied over primer/surfacer sanded with 320-grit and used as a seal coat before applying the top coats. Of course, there is always a stipulation or two when it comes to applying epoxy so be certain you read the “Compatible Surfaces” section of the P Sheets to be sure you are using the product correctly. - Source: Internet
- When would you want to use a urethane single-stage finish? I like single stage finishes any time I’m painting a vehicle with a non-metallic color. This non-metallic or solid color characteristic allows me to color sand and buff a single-stage finish without worrying about exposing the metallics and mottling the finish. The finish is one color through and through and you can make one of these paint jobs as slick as glass with a little color sanding and buffing. - Source: Internet
- For the perfect glass-like surface on your epoxy resin work piece, sanding after curing is essential. In the following article we will explain which material you need for epoxy resin sanding and what you should pay attention to. In addition, you will receive step-by-step instructions on how to best proceed when sanding a resin surface. - Source: Internet
- In their time, enamels were considered to be durable and long-lasting. If you garaged your original enamel paint job it would eventually become hard as a rock and might last forever. But left in the sun it would quickly chalk and fade away. - Source: Internet
- Any other reason for using a urethane single-stage finish? Here’s one very good reason: When applying a base coat/clear coat finish you will need to apply three coats of base and top that with at least three coats of clear. That’s a minimum of six trips around the car with a paint gun hanging off your arm. Using a urethane single-stage finish lets you cut the number of coats and trips around the car in half. - Source: Internet
- Ok, that is a good question. And one that I would refer you to the SPI user forum for a detailed explanation. But in short, you can do it either way. Filler under primer, or over primer. According to the manufacturer, the epoxy primer really gives the filler a good “bite”. - Source: Internet
- Anytime you opt to use acrylic enamel always add a hardener to the mix. Without the hardener to reduce the curing time, you cannot apply additional coats without waiting for at least 90 days. The new coats will lift and wrinkle if applied before the 90 days are up. Adding the hardener quickly cures the enamel and allows you to repair flaws in the paint after only 48 hours of cure time. - Source: Internet
- Etching primers do two things (Photo 1). They enhance adhesion when you’re applying primer/surfacers and sealers to bare sanded steel and aluminum and they offer some corrosion resistance to bare sanded steel and aluminum. (Sanded with what? I prefer 180-grit dry.) - Source: Internet
- The amine blush itself does not pose a problem, as it does not damage the casting resin. However, if you want to further process your workpiece, e.g. with an additional epoxy coating or a lacquer, it is essential to clean the surface in advance if amine blush has formed on it. Otherwise, these substances cannot bond effectively with the resin. - Source: Internet
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