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  • Inside, this type of pencil often uses an adapter, similar in shape to the refill for the matching ballpoint, which contains the whole pencil mechanism and lead tube. Essentially, the pencil is a ballpoint pen with an adapter fitted to turn it into a pencil. There’s usually a cap at the top of the adapter which you remove to add more leads. - Source: Internet
  • If the mechanism can’t be opened up, blockages can usually be cleared by holding the pencil tip-up, with the button held down against your desk, and feeding a cleaning pin in through the tip to push any little bits of lead out from where they’re stuck. Some pencils include a cleaning pin, attached to the eraser, but many don’t. If you don’t have one to hand, another piece of thin wire or a pin may fit, but don’t force anything too wide into the tip. At a push, a spare piece of lead can do the job, but it takes a steady hand to feed it in without snapping it! - Source: Internet
  • Most mechanical pencils can be dismantled to some extent to clear a jam. Usually, the part near the tip unscrews, which lets you see the mechanism. If you then push the button down against your desk, the clutch mechanism pushes up. There’s a brass ring around the clutch jaws, holding them shut - push it down, and it will release the jaws. Once they’ve sprung open a bit of sideways tapping should dislodge any tiny bits of lead. - Source: Internet
  • A lot of multipens have pencils as one of their functions. These are most commonly either twist-action or gravity select models, and the pencil mechanism and lead chamber are all fitted into the space of one of the tiny ballpoint refills. They normally operate like most pencils do, by just clicking a button on the top to extend more lead. Adding more lead is a bit more fiddly, and generally involves pulling the little pencil mechanism off its mounting, just like you would to change the ballpoint refills. There’s space for a few leads in the tube it fits onto, but don’t put too many in there - two or three spares is all there’s space for. - Source: Internet
  • In most pencils, the erasers won’t last long, because they’re so small. If you expect to use the eraser enough that this is a problem, look for pencils with large extendable erasers. Several different brands have pencils with long erasers that can be extended by twisting. - Source: Internet
  • If you use mechanical pencils, at some point you’re likely to have a lead jam. It happens. A tiny bit of lead gets stuck somewhere in the mechanism, and stops it from working. Lead might not click forward, or it might click forward but slide back in when you try to use the pencil. - Source: Internet
  • The thickness you want depends very much on your usage, and depends a lot on personal taste, too. If your writing is small, or your drawings detailed, you’ll need thinner lead. If you’re heavy-handed, you’ll need thicker lead. 2mm leads are similar in width to the core in a standard wooden pencil, so for most purposes, you’d need to sharpen them to get a sharp enough point. - Source: Internet
  • Because a pencil is usually held at an angle to the page, the lead wears down at an angle, and forms a chisel-shaped tip with a sharp point. This shape makes for a thicker line, and the sharp point can catch on the paper. Some people naturally work around this by turning the pencil as they go, wearing the lead down more evenly. The Kuru Toga does this for you. The result is a finer line, and less lead breakage. - Source: Internet
  • Buying a mechanical pencil is easy. It can be a bit more difficult to buy just the right mechanical pencil for you. And maybe even more difficult to buy the right one for someone else. The good news, though, is that they’re nearly all quite reliable and tough, and most are quite comfortable to use, so it’s unlikely you’ll go too far wrong. - Source: Internet
  • Definitions vary, but for the purpose of this article, we’ll consider a mechanical pencil to be any pencil with a lead-advance mechanism that pushes the lead forward in some way. We’ll mention clutch pencils briefly too, where the lead is released when you hold down a button, but we consider those to be a separate type. Woodcased pencils are obviously not counted here, but that doesn’t mean we don’t love them too. - Source: Internet
  • If the pencil is going to live in a pencil pot on your desk, it won’t matter much to you if it isn’t pocket safe. If you’re going to be sketching out and about, though, it can be very important. Conical tips aren’t usually too risky anyway, but tubular tips can be a bit too sharp to want them in your pocket if they don’t retract. For quick and easy retracting, a ‘double-knock’ mechanism helps - the mechanism is retracted with either a side button or a firmer push of the end button. Others may need you to push the tip in against something while holding the button down. - Source: Internet
  • Mechanical pencils may be called different things in different places, by different people. Here in the UK, ‘automatic pencil’ and ‘propelling pencil’ are quite common terms, and people may also refer to ‘clicky pencils’. Ones designed for technical drawing may be referred to as ‘drafting pencils’ (or even ‘draughting’ in British English), or ’technical pencils’, though these terms have also been used for traditional clutch pencils. - Source: Internet
  • Clutch pencils are closely related to mechanical pencils. They use a very similar clutch mechanism to grip the lead, but they lack the extra complexity required to push the lead forward with a click or twist. Then usually have a button on the end, and when you press the button, the lead is released. You manually move the lead to where you need it, then let go of the button. - Source: Internet
  • Not that we have anything against other types of pencils - we have lots of clutch pencils, and a huge range of woodcased pencils here at Cult Pens, and they’re all ideal tools for someone. A wooden pencil can make a wider range of marks, and has a certain simplicity that mechanical pencils can’t match. It’s perfectly possible to love them all! - Source: Internet
  • It’s a bit subtle, but we’re going to make a distinction here between pencils where the sleeve that surrounds the lead can slide up if pushed; and pencils where the sleeve is designed to slide up easily while writing. A few pencils now have sleeves with edges that are smoothly rounded, so they won’t catch on the paper, and made to slide up really easily. The result is that you can keep writing in the same way you can with an auto feed pencil. The difference is that these pencils won’t actually feed out any more lead, so you’ll have to stop and click eventually. By that point, though, there’s bound to have been enough of a pause in proceedings for you to give the button a click. - Source: Internet
  • We love mechanical pencils. You’d probably guess that from the huge number of them we stock. There’s an amazing variety of mechanical pencils available, in all sorts of styles, with all sorts of features, for many different purposes. So we thought some sort of guide might be useful. We’re aiming for this guide to serve several purposes: - Source: Internet
  • We’re all perfectly familiar with wooden pencils - a stick of wood with a ’lead’ core, sometimes with an eraser on the end. They don’t have the predictable line width of a mechanical pencil, and they get awkward to use when you’ve worn them down with sharpening. There’s a simplicity about them, though, that’s impossible to beat. That simplicity means you always know it’s going to write, and you can pass one to anyone without having to explain anything. - Source: Internet
  • Shaker pencils have a weight inside that will knock the lead forward by one ‘click’ when you give the pencil a quick up-down shake. It’s quicker to do than pressing a button, so these can be quite popular for students. They normally have a button too, so you can ignore the shaker part when you don’t need it. - Source: Internet
  • The first pencils were more like modern clutch pencils than what we now think of as ’normal’ wooden pencils. Graphite was first used in lumps, with perhaps a bit of cloth wrapped around to hold it. When things started to progress towards the pencil, the first attempts involved wooden holders to grip sticks of graphite, so they could be used more easily and cleanly. The first description of a leadholder was by Conrad Gessner, back in 1565. - Source: Internet
  • If the eraser is important to you, you’ll need to make sure it’s a good size, probably of the extendable type. These usually twist up and down to expose more eraser as needed, usually with the added bonus that you can twist it back down out of the way when pocketing the pencil. For drawing, though, you may already have a preferred eraser that you’ll carry separately, in which case, any eraser would be for emergency use only. - Source: Internet
  • To many people, they combine the best features of mechanical pencils with the best features of woodcase pencils. They don’t vary in length as you use them, and while they can be sharpened to get a good point on them, sharpening isn’t vital if you really need to keep scribbling. They keep much of the simplicity of a wooden pencil, though, with big, simple clutch jaws gripping the lead, and just a spring to make them close and grip. - Source: Internet
  • With most mechanical pencils, the eraser is there for emergency use only. If you needed to erase much, you’d probably want a separate eraser. A few pencils, though, have larger erasers, with twisting mechanisms to extend them, so they can last a long time. If you erase often, it’s a great feature. - Source: Internet
  • Looks. A cheap plastic pencil will be perfectly functional, but might not look the part in a meeting. If you’re wearing a nice suit, it would be a shame to have the cheapest pencil poking out of your pocket. Your tastes might be more towards the technical or machined-metal look, but again, you’ll need to invest a little more for the right look. - Source: Internet
  • For the most part, mechanical pencils are quite simple to use - with most of them, you just click the button on the end to feed out more lead whenever you need to. Retract the lead by holding the button in and gently pushing the lead in. When one stick of lead is used up, keep clicking until the next appears. When you’re all out, just add more leads of the right size, usually through a hole under the button, often hidden under the eraser. - Source: Internet
    1. Pentel Twist-Erase III Automatic Pencil This pencil comes with either a red or black barrel (unfortunately the customer does not get to choose the color), an additional long-lasting eraser, and extra leads. The HB lead (equivalent to a #2 pencil’s) creates precise dark lines when put to paper, and it won’t break easily. The pencil’s soft grip makes it comfortable to hold for hours without cramping or tiring. With a long nib so you can see what you are doing, an easy twist-up eraser, Pentel’s high-performance leads, and a sturdy body that will survive multiple refills of leads and erasers, this is our go-to pencil. - Source: Internet
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